Kaxil Kiuic Biocultural Reserve and Yaxhachen

Monday Dec. 29, 2008

After our brief acquaintance with the lovely city of Merida, Mexico, we set off on an adventurous journey to the Helen Moyers Biocultural Reserve known as Kaxil Kiuic. On the way, we encountered many unforgettable sites and bites (in every sense of the word).. It all began as we slammed the non-electric doors of the stylish, white Millsaps van--we were on the road! We passed village after village, discussing/arguing the true meaning of the different "bump" signs, until we finally arrived at the small but interesting town of Oxkutzcab. Here, we walked through the market where many exotic fruits caught our eye! The friendly Mayan ladies let us taste the unique fruits, although some were not as appetising as others. Only the brave few dared to taste the sapote negro, a rotten-looking fruit with a black, mushy inside--luckily, they were surprised to find that it actually had no taste at all!

After leaving the market, we stopped at a local restaurant to get a bite to eat. The cuisine was delicious; their specialty was Poc Chuc--a tender, smoked pork chopped and served in sour orange juice. When our stomachs were filled with guacamole and chips, we got back in the van, saying a few hopeful prayers as we started up the narrow, curvy road through the Puuc Hills to the Reserve. We arrived at Kaxil Kiuic in the late afternoon and were greeted by James Callahan, the director of the Biocultural Reserve. Before partaking in a homemade Mayan dinner, James took us on an informative tour of the Mayan ruins located around the Reserve. The Reserve consists of over 4,000 acres of tropical forest and protects the ancient Maya center of Kiuic. We learned that "kiuic" is the Mayan term for a gathering place--these were very prevalent among the ruins. As James explained, these ruins were probably home to a few Mayan families. There was evidence of a temple, an entertainment center, living quarters, and many gathering areas--all made of limestone. The architecture the people left behind was incredible; one can only imagine what it was like during their time. The Reserve has been designated as a "Unit of Environmental Management", a legal status which allows it to work closely with Mexican institutions and organizations to carry out its vision for "research and education for conservation". Powered by solar energy, the Reserve supports an alternative form of living dedicated to the conservation of the Mayan environment and to the study of their unique culture, as well as to the protection of biological diversity within the area. This conforms to the International Environmental Law concerned with the preservation and enhancement of the global environment.

Soon, the sun was disappearing on the horizon, the mosquitoes and unknown Mayan bugs were nibbling at our heels, and we were tired and hungry after a long Yucatecan day. We took the trail back to the big yellow huts and made it back just in time to see the sunset atop the sky-high wooden tower. After eating a delicious Mayan dinner, we decided to accompany James on a night excursion to a small town called Yaxhachen. Before we got in the van to leave, we noticed the millions of bright stars beaming down at us--it was breathtaking! As we arrived in Yaxhachen, we did not see very much, but as we got closer, we heard a good beat and knew that someone must be having a party. But our minds were completely blown when we saw "the party"--it was a huge concert with loud speakers, strobe lights, and hundreds of Mayan children running everywhere! The music was fantastic, but, unfortunately, no one was dancing. Rows of seats were set up and everyone was quietly seated listening to the music. It was a sight to see! We asked James, and he said that it was a religious concert and that dancing was against their rules. This was strange and disappointing, but it did not stop us from enjoying the awesome concert! We took a short walk with James around the small town, as we literally stepped over thousands of stray, unfriendly dogs, and then got back in the van to leave.

When we got back to the Reserve, we were shown to our huts and hammocks--where we would sleep for the night. We unpacked our belongings and tested out different sleeping positions in the unusual, but--for the most part--comfortable, hammocks. Before going to sleep, we left our huts and gathered together around candlelight in the middle of the dark Mayan woods to tell stories of ghosts and other scary creatures. As we slept that night in the pitch black darkness with our spider friends all around us, our dreams were anything but uneventful. But, nevertheless, we woke up the next morning to a bright, new Yucatecan day and set off on a new adventure!